San mai by hand – forging a san mai knife with a hammer



Lets hand forge a san mai knife with a hammer! San mai by hand is easier than you might think. We start with 2 different types of steel, a core layer and an outer …

27 thoughts on “San mai by hand – forging a san mai knife with a hammer

  1. Aleeknives says:

    I will admit, I had several failures leading up to making this video! I wanted to showcase the method I adopted that actually works, hopefully saving you some of the learning curve! Did you find it informative?

  2. Graham Howard says:

    What was the point of drilling the holes? All you have done is leave unsightly pit marks in the blade….That point aside really well done and keep the content coming, I really enjoy the videos!

  3. Alexander Yanson says:

    Hi buddy, got one more subscriber here..interested in san mai forging, about to try one though. Your billet looks so white on the video when you took it out of your forge. I wonder if the billet looks really white in real time when it reaches forging temperature? I dont have a forge thermometer so i would have to judge it by its color. Thanks for your tips.

  4. Bryson Alden says:

    I appreciate your transparency about what you'd do differently. That said, you did remind me of several things I'd filed away in the dark recesses of my memory that I'd effectively forgotten about, so thanks!

  5. wizzlefits says:

    What I've done in the past is, make a damascus billet and either cut & stack or hot split it and forge weld the core, then draw it out. But just remember, if you learned something.. it's was a success. 😉

  6. Fran o' Toole says:

    Not bad Aerin. At least you show your mistakes aswell as your sucesses. Everydays a learning curve. Little tip on the scratches. Dont hold the blade and go back and forth, it will create fish hook scratches. Sand in one direction, then move, to a clean piece of paper. I think you do that anyway when your doing your polished blades. Just treat etched blades the same, in fact even more so as the etchant will realy show them up. I think if you did an extra few layers the rain drop pattern realy would have stood out. Have the core, and outer sleeves thick, and the inner layers thinner, will have a great contrast.

  7. What2Melt? says:

    Awesome video. Im trying to get into forging knives (bought one for my channel) and your video is very helpful. I dont have the same awesome tools you have but I think I can find alternative solutions. (I do really want a welder after watching this vid haha) Subbed to your channel and look forward to your content

  8. C Litt says:

    I like the way it turned out. That ebony handle will look good. We exchanged emails a few months back about my kukri, I just sent you some pics of it finished.

  9. Tyrell Knifeworks says:

    Love seeing you do more forging. I’m jealous of that anvil! I was thinking when I saw your steels that you’d want thicker cladding cause your core doesn’t compress as much. Also next time etch it as your grinding so you can center the core. We learn on every build though! ❤️

  10. John Doe says:

    Do you have a recommended source for your handle materials? You seem to acquire some nice materials. My local places are very hit and miss. Nice tutorial as always, I haven’t been brave enough to pattern weld yet but I did get a bunch of 1084 and 15n20 in my last steel order for when I finally decide to brave it.

  11. Lacanian_Lifter says:

    Hey boss, just ground out my first knife last night after watching your 10 part video guide (which I have since recommended to friends), and it went well! All the info you provided was great. That said, I goofed up the angles on the blade after going for a saber grind, but that’s just a matter of experience. Thanks again for your help, and great new vid.

  12. Wiley - Rook Bladeworks says:

    great video, thanks for sharing. I know that some old school makers use acid like white vinegar or PH Down to soften the scale so they can wire wheel it off. Jason Knight uses a sand blaster with glass media to remove the scale. I imagine those would be good options on thinner billets to conserve material.

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