As a matter of interest, Rockwell – Delta, back in the sixties, recommended this practice. With the jointer running. No jigs, just a stone moved across the spinning knives. That's apparently how it was done, back in the good old days. I'll assume their knives weren't HSS.
The knives seem very sharp right after honing but I think that the 'heel' of the bevel smacks the timber and so doesn't cut that effectively. Maybe I'm doing something wrong/different…
1) While I like this approach for quick touch ups, I have been using a magnetic jointer knife setting jig that is so fast and easy that I have no hesitation to fiddle w/ my knives. In the end, it's so quick and easy to just remove the knives and sharpen them on a much more effective and efficient bench system that I find this approach's benefits are a bit thin. 2) Knives for 6" jointers can be had online for $25/set, which pretty much works out to the cost of screwing up a stick or two of good wood, so I just order a 2nd set of knives for limited down-time whilst the other set gets sharpened (by me or a shop). 3) Truth in advertising is that I have the Makita platter style honing wheel, which pretty much guarantees fast, easy, perfect edges — sorry Tormek users. Platter style keeps a wide, flat contact patch for the knives, so no hollow grinds or concentrated patches of material removal.
I think I'm going to give this a try. I have the same chisel sharpener. My only question is accuracy to getting the precise cutting edge angle. How critical is that? It didn't seem clear in the video. And with 600 and 1200 grit how severe of wear can you repair. I'm just a shop hack, not a pro.
i see a comment at the bottom from wv591. please ignore this idiot as he has no idea what he is talking about. the reason the outfeed is adjustable is because if it wasn't you would just have to throw your jointer away as you would never get a straight board off it. you also wouldn't be able to do spring joints on it either.
if you nick your knives, rather than taking them all out and getting them honed, just slide one of the knives left or right fractionally so that knife cleans up the bit the nicked knives leave behind. then you can continue working till your ready to take them all out.
Moving the outfeed table is almost as bad as removing knives and in some cases worse. most if not all have shims and are set at factory and moving them can really mess things up. 🙂
As a matter of interest, Rockwell – Delta, back in the sixties, recommended this practice. With the jointer running. No jigs, just a stone moved across the spinning knives. That's apparently how it was done, back in the good old days. I'll assume their knives weren't HSS.
thank you
What do you do with the inevitable burr on the flat side of the blade?
I already do a method very similar to this on my machine, but I find that clearance angle is a problem.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Dp6QN9e-sg
The knives seem very sharp right after honing but I think that the 'heel' of the bevel smacks the timber and so doesn't cut that effectively. Maybe I'm doing something wrong/different…
Now you show me this… after I removed my knives for sharpening!? 😉 Setting them up again is a PITA!
1) While I like this approach for quick touch ups, I have been using a magnetic jointer knife setting jig that is so fast and easy that I have no hesitation to fiddle w/ my knives. In the end, it's so quick and easy to just remove the knives and sharpen them on a much more effective and efficient bench system that I find this approach's benefits are a bit thin.
2) Knives for 6" jointers can be had online for $25/set, which pretty much works out to the cost of screwing up a stick or two of good wood, so I just order a 2nd set of knives for limited down-time whilst the other set gets sharpened (by me or a shop).
3) Truth in advertising is that I have the Makita platter style honing wheel, which pretty much guarantees fast, easy, perfect edges — sorry Tormek users. Platter style keeps a wide, flat contact patch for the knives, so no hollow grinds or concentrated patches of material removal.
what a carry on
Great idea, I tried this and it worked great , tape worked very well, plus I found out I had a slight bow in my blades. Thanks for the idea.
I think I'm going to give this a try. I have the same chisel sharpener. My only question is accuracy to getting the precise cutting edge angle. How critical is that? It didn't seem clear in the video. And with 600 and 1200 grit how severe of wear can you repair. I'm just a shop hack, not a pro.
i see a comment at the bottom from wv591. please ignore this idiot as he has no idea what he is talking about. the reason the outfeed is adjustable is because if it wasn't you would just have to throw your jointer away as you would never get a straight board off it. you also wouldn't be able to do spring joints on it either.
if you nick your knives, rather than taking them all out and getting them honed, just slide one of the knives left or right fractionally so that knife cleans up the bit the nicked knives leave behind. then you can continue working till your ready to take them all out.
The better way: hand planes.
+WV591 You have no fucking clue what you're talking about.
I think he moved only the in-feed table, which is adjustable anyhow, to control the thickness of cut.
Great tip. I can't understand why anyone would give this a thumbs down?
Moving the outfeed table is almost as bad as removing knives and in some cases worse. most if not all have shims and are set at factory and moving them can really mess things up. 🙂
love it!