How to Reinforce an Entry Door for Under $10



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49 thoughts on “How to Reinforce an Entry Door for Under $10

  1. John Drew says:

    Hi, it's best to use angle iron the full length of the door frame also on the hinge side.
    That was what I did about 30 years ago to protect my rear metal door of my amusement arcade, my place wasn't breached unlike several of my neighbours! One of which had his *** breached for them to get in! Weld some triangle pieces also of 1/4" at the top, bottom and a few inbetween, to add extra strength to the whole angle iron frame support, it's much better when screwed or bolted into brick wall!
    Stay safe!!

  2. William Moore says:

    FINALLY!!!!!! One of these videos that shows proper shimming in the strike plate and hinge are when installing a door! If your door is already installed, remove inner door trim and fully shim this area. Long screws mean little if a burglar uses a flatbar to compress door frame against the house frame- this allows the bolt to clear the strike plate. Well done!

  3. Against the Modern World says:

    Yeah- that's NOT homie's 1st time kicking in a door. BTW- home invasions are rarely done with just one person- look at the videos nhere on YT and you'll see invaders come in gangs 4's and 5's- but hey- you only need 10 round magazines to protect your family- right???

  4. smiley says:

    That does help. even if they are going to get in anyways. If they want to bad enough. But if your there it will sure give you time to arm yourself or run out. If you dont have a gun running is better than possiable death. A fence or lock mostly keeps an honest man honest. But if you make it to much work and they get scared making noise it may work out well.

  5. viking saxon says:

    // Good vidio,but a bit involved,the best way to secure all doors is to have a metal frame secured into the brick work,then the door has internal bars which go into top,bottom,sides with central handel and lock, very secure !!!!

  6. City Lock a polytechnikey llc company says:

    Your techniques will make your door much better than doors NOT reinforced this way, but the 16 ga plate as applied on an existing door situation is not likely to resist any serious shouldering, the metal is flat, and will bend outward. If the plate were formed to a 90 degree bend; the resulting lip will set in front of the extended bolt, and be strengthened by its' shape.

    If replacing a complete doorway, route a path the entire height of back of jamb, and install 12 ga steel with a top and bottom 90 degree bend. This will tie your jamb to the header and floor joists, making for a formidable lock side. Do the SAME for the hinge side.

    Alternately, one can use a commercial steel door jamb, and apply wood casings.

    The deadbolt itself is the next point of consideration. Most homes built in last decade have either a Schlage residential or Kwikset lock. NEITHER can take a kick without the bolt separating from its' sheath. That is without even discussing bumping, picking etc.

    A Schlage Commercial B660 ( with Medeco, Primus or Everest cylinder ) deadbolt is strong as heck, smooth operating and does not get lose its smooth operation. You also get protection against moderate bypass methods.

  7. Curry Taylor says:

    So has nobody besides me used the method to put in 4inch deck screws in the strike plate holes? It goes through the casing and into the 2×4 frame of the house itself. Much simpler than this stuff.

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